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Post revised (I just had to look it up):

According to the 1970-1977 150 parts manual, velcro was used on the pilot's side overlay 1973 and up. Velcro was used on the right side overlay from 1973 thru 1976, but went back to nuts (right side only) in 1977. Strangely, the 1977 nuts are a different part number than the earlier nuts.

Anthony, I suspect your 150L is a 1973 model by serial number (15073659 thru 15074850). You should always order parts by serial number, not what the FAA registration says.

Last edited by Carl_Chitwood; 05/09/15 07:18 PM.
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In any case Plane Plastics gets $250 for both sides. I will carefully remove my existing and see if I can salvage it.
Carl thank you for that. I will look at my serial number and compare.

Thank you all for the quick replies! I like this place already....

Last edited by Anthony_Balestrino; 05/09/15 10:02 PM.

Antonio Bal
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Anthony, I replaced my panel covers last year and was surprised at the amount of modifications that I had to do to get a fit. If you do not have a dremel tool, go ahead and invest in one now. The right panel cover was a challenge in that fuel and oil gauge bezels just kind of floated around underneath the new panel due to a difference in the way the new panel was made. Good luck with the projects, this forum has members of high quality and character and always willing to help. Although I do not post regularly i certainly value the knowledge and information that the forum provides me as I strive to understand my C-150 L better.


Dan Maggart
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Originally Posted by Anthony_Balestrino
In any case Plane Plastics gets $250 for both sides.


For comparison purposes, you can get powdercoated, laser engraved, metal panels from club member, Bill Rourke, www.airplanepanels.com [airplanepanels.com] for somewhere close to the same money as the plastic overlays.

....and the metal panels will never give you any heartache in the future.

Your choice.


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Bengie



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Antonio... Anthony... Can we call you TONY? Welcome to the club!

So I agree with the Velcro as that's what 71Q has and is a 1971L model.

How long have you owned your C150? If you've been lurking about here for so long it's great that you've finally come out of the shadows! You already know the site is full of information you can use. But the real asset is in the membership. You have so many club members close by.

It's a shame that hangar space is so expensive. I feel spoiled paying $265 in Ocala.

Hope to see you in Clinton this summer!


Former Owner Of 1971 Cessna 150L
N1471Q ... 71 Quebec Eh?! (It's a Canadian thing smile )
Ocala, Florida KOCF

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Glen please do feel free to call me Tony. I have been a partner in my airplane since around 1998 or so (really have to look that up. Not sure). I joined two others in ownership who were TWA mechanics. Each has left the area for career changes and are still part owners but do not fly the plane. I have made many upgrades over the years and have the good fortune of flying with a couple of ace mechanics with years of experience wrenching on GA airplanes with Cessna 150 and 172 being their primary experiences. They have performed the upgrades as well as all annuals since my partners moved away.


Antonio Bal
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Originally Posted by Bengie_Phillips
Originally Posted by Anthony_Balestrino
In any case Plane Plastics gets $250 for both sides.


For comparison purposes, you can get powdercoated, laser engraved, metal panels from club member, Bill Rourke, www.airplanepanels.com [airplanepanels.com] for somewhere close to the same money as the plastic overlays.

....and the metal panels will never give you any heartache in the future.

Your choice.


+1

An example of Bill Rourke's work.
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IMG_0706.JPG (1.81 MB, 26 downloads)


Ron "20"

A&P/IA


1976 Cessna 150M - N820ST
St. Charles Regional Airport KSET

Fly Safe... Fly Often...


Super Bowl IV - LIV - LVII - LVIII CHAMPION Kansas City Chiefs!

2019 Stanley Cup Champion St. Louis BLUES!

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I checked out the site and it does make sense to spend a tad more for such a tremendous difference. Am I correct in assuming all instruments and the yokes must be removed prior To installation?


Antonio Bal
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The yokes are easily removed by removing (1) nut/bolt at the u-joint connection behind the panel.

The instruments can be released from the metal sub-panel by removing the (4) instument retaining screws on each instrument and allowed to hang in-place behind the panel. There's enough wires and vacuum hoses back there to keep them semi-in-place.


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Bengie



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