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My rudder cap and beacon mount are a jillion shattered pieces of Royalite. (I measured how high the new hangar door had to go, but today I misremembered the clearance point. Pulled the plane out and CRUNCH. Need to find replacement rudder cap and in front of it, the beacon mount before I can fly again. Clues? Checked Texas Aeroplastics but didn't see the like...

(And the out-of-town daughter was so surprised to see a real airplane being pulled out of a hangar she had to get pictures. If I hadn't been posing for the camera... )


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Originally Posted by Tom_Winter
My rudder cap and beacon mount are a jillion shattered pieces of Royalite. (I measured how high the new hangar door had to go, but today I misremembered the clearance point. Pulled the plane out and CRUNCH. Need to find replacement rudder cap and in front of it, the beacon mount before I can fly again. Clues? Checked Texas Aeroplastics but didn't see the like...

(And the out-of-town daughter was so surprised to see a real airplane being pulled out of a hangar she had to get pictures. If I hadn't been posing for the camera... )


Got my BFR today. With today's wind when I opened my hanger door everything light and loose flew right out. I didn't want the door any higher than necessary also.

Last edited by Lyle_Eisenhauer; 11/22/12 12:17 AM.

1961 172B. N7909X
(Sold)1974L N11573
Sterling NE
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Vertical Stab Tip, small beacon or large beacon?


You might try Stene [steneaviation.com] for fiberglass tips.


Mark Buchner
East Coast Outkast Fearless Leader
and Cessna 150-152 Fly-In Foundation Director of Operations

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Originally Posted by Mark
fiberglass tips.





Fiberglass tips........much more gooder than plastic. whistle

(Sorry to hear about the memory loss, Tom....it can happen to the best of us.) blush


Jim


Cessna 150/150, N2259M - Mighty Mouse
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A spot of paint or a piece of duct tape will mark the height.

Last edited by jimkonst; 11/22/12 12:02 PM.

Jim

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Stene makes the fiberglass parts that the others sell as their own. I bought SA-0431017-1 from Stene for my 150K and was pleased with the quality (fits 150F, 150G, 150H, 150J, 150K, 150L, A150K, A150L). The hardest part of the installation was measuring for the VOR whiskers, if you still have them.

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Thanks again, gentlemen! Have just ordered the fiberglass beacon cap and the ruddertop from Stene. "In aviation, anything under $100 is as good as free." Okay --> one barely free, one just over. Can't fly till I get them mounted, so am EAGER.

P.S. The Boss and I made five pies. Four of them are here at Daughter Rose's place. Daughter Ruth (the chem eng at Wheaton, Ill) is here too. Everybody's gonna be STUFFED.


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Before you take your old cap off, take a ruler and a pencil, mark two intersecting lines to the screws of the old cap so that the pencil marks are also on the paint/metal of the tail. When fitting the new one, place on the top, put your ruler on the lines and where they intersect is your new screw hole!

For the whiskers: get a piece of wide masking tape and place it over the whisker holes. Cut/rip the tape so it ends at the bottom of the cap, and poke a hole in the tape where your current whisker hole is. Move said tape to new cap and mark.

You may also wish to add reinforcing to your beacon light with a light piece of sheet metal under(inside). I had to. The hardest part is putting those dang whiskers back in while standing on a ladder holding all the wiring.


'69 Buckfitty.
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Thanks, Matt! Plain to see, you've saved me time and cusswords!

'Nother question: I have no intention of getting an instrument rating. Why not just leave the VOR whiskers OFF?


"The most beautiful thing on earth is the sky above it." -- Joanna Fink
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