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| | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 946 Member/750+posts | | Member/750+posts Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 946 | Oh Gee Matt ya think,  Great advise, just a little late. My A&P is 81 years old. He went with the easy part first. Oh well I guess it'll wait until I get back from Clinton. Matt, look me up in Clinton. N150JV I don't think you can miss the plane. 
The "Lone Wolf" N150JV
"Nuttin' but Glock"
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 Member/25,000 posts | | Member/25,000 posts Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 | if you want to avoid taking the rudder off, once you remove the old bumper plates, don't attach the new bumpers on the horn until the new nutplates, doubler, and bolts are installed. My A&P installed the kit without removing the rudder. With the new bumpers in place, there wasn't enough room to get the right-hand stop bolt started. He had to shorten it. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 Member/1500+posts | | Member/1500+posts Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 | John, Yeah, I was following the service kit instructions line by line. For best results, fully understand everything before starting THEN decide when to do which. I'll definitely look you up, I know you and your plane. We got some great shots of it in close formation last year (Jeff behind the wheel). Hung, Out of curiosity... do you know if the rudder stops were adjusted using the degrees of rudder travel specified in the service manual or if the method Charles posted (also in the service manual in the reinstall rudder section) where the wire was taped to a stationary point and +6" travel on each side? I really feel my rudder travel has lost some after the modification when set up by degrees...
Matt Willett <><> Ex-Owner/Operator of the Spring Chicken N5095L
| | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,525 Member/2500+posts | | Member/2500+posts Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 2,525 | Hmmm, maybe just an optical illusion, do the heads on the bolt hit only half of the stop mounted on the horn?
Lionel, and my 1974 150L C-FETZ
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 Member/1500+posts | | Member/1500+posts Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 | Pretty much. The clearance between the rearward part of the bolt (right side especially) and the rear portion of the horn is practically nothing. As to why they decided the stops needed to be so long and have 3 rivets, I have no idea.
Matt Willett <><> Ex-Owner/Operator of the Spring Chicken N5095L
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 Member/25,000 posts | | Member/25,000 posts Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 | Out of curiosity... do you know if the rudder stops were adjusted using the degrees of rudder travel specified in the service manual I don't recall any adjustments were made. The mechanic just followed the instructions in the kit. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 Member/1500+posts | | Member/1500+posts Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,089 Likes: 5 | Odd, how would one know how far to screw them in? 
Matt Willett <><> Ex-Owner/Operator of the Spring Chicken N5095L
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 Member/25,000 posts | | Member/25,000 posts Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 25,455 Likes: 1006 | Odd, how would one know how far to screw them in? I just looked at the instructions in the kit. Step 21 says: "(Refer to Service Manual) Check rudder for proper deflection and direction of travel when operated by the rudder pedals. Adjust 0433142-1 Stop Bolt as required . Tighten MS21042-3 Nut to secure adjustment of stop bolt". The mechanic might have done that while I was in the cockpit removing the instrument panel cover to install the oil temp gauge. | | |
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