Club Homepage Forums Classified Ads Buy & Sell - Everything But Airplanes I need a rudder return spring

The left rudder return spring is AWOL and was discovered missing during the annual over the weekend. I've tried Mc Farlane and Wag Aero but no luck so far.

The parts book says I need a 0310196-13 spring-brake-rudder return.
The plane is a 1968H serial# 15068389

Any ideas where to get one? Anyone have an extra one?



...and no I have no idea where it went, other than it's perhaps laying in a steering boot along with a few other things I've dropped over the years.

Order it from Cessna, they are about $10
If it "fell off" it probably broke- you'd really know if if you tried to fly without a return spring installed, as you would really have to hold the rudder pedal to fly straight.
Cessna Parts (dot) com
IwantCessnaParts (dot) com
Have fun installing it-it's a PITA

Do you mind it it's yellow?

jim my book shows two springs but there was no "hook" on one side...
my mechanic has one...

Installation tip for the pedal return springs:

(Ref: 63-69 parts manual)

The forward (fixed) end of the spring(s)are hooked into a tab clip (item # 5) which is bolted (item #6) to the center box structure. Unbolt this tab from the structure when replacing these springs. Do this instead of trying to grab the spring itself to stretch it out to unhook it from the small hole in the tab, or to hook the new spring onto the tab.

Here is the key point - the bolt will still stay in the structure hole even after the nut has been removed because the tab/spring is pulling sideways on the bolt (not pulling it out) forcing it to lean over and jam in the hole (note the bolt head and tab is still close to flush on the structure). Now all that is needed is to stretch the spring enough to unload and slide the bolt out of the structure hole - instead of try to stretch and twist the spring around to get it out of the little hole in the tab. Reverse for install, hook tab onto spring then stretch it enough to get bolt in the structure hole with tab and bolt head flush to the structure, then let the load trap it there, ready to install the nut. Hitting this larger bolt hole while stretching the spring is much much easier than trying to hook the stretched spring on the (fixed) tab). Takes a lot of the pain and colorful language out of this little job.

There are two tabs or "hooks" as you call them. Only one is visible externally, until you remove the top cover to the box in the center of the floor between the two sets of rudder pedals. The second spring is inside that box. When installing new springs, I disconnect the rudder cables at the rudder (without disturbing the turnbuckles), which relieves tension on the pedal return springs.

Replace both springs to get even pull on the cables.

Tie strings on each of the rudder cables at the tail cone, and pull the rudder to one side and disconnect one cable, then push to the other side and disconnect the other as Carl says, and you may also need to disconnect the steering rods from the steering collar, this will allow the rudder bars to flop free, hook up the cables and verify the springs are still properly hooked, then reconnect the steering rods. Easy job except for standing on your head under the panel.

Charles

Help me out folks - how do you get the tunnel off to access the springs?

On a straight-tail? It's been awhile, but as I recall you had to first remove the two square sheet-metal scuff plates (heel plates) just aft of the rudder pedals (four screws each). That then exposes the screws holding the center tunnel to the floor. There are also four(?) screws that hold the aft end of the tunnel to the bulkhead the runs from door-to-door.

Finally, there are four(?) screws that hold the front of the tunnel to the firewall. These last screws are particularly difficult. Sometimes you can't see them because the firewall insulation is torn and covers the screw heads. You also need a long phillips screwdriver to reach past the rudder pedals. And the screws are prone to dropping into the floorboards under the rudder pedals.

Once all the screws are out, you have to flex the tunnel a bit to get it out and around the control column. You'll probably have to remove the "beauty shield" on the front of the control column for clearance.

Thanks Kirk! Sounds like a Saturday project, but definitely more promising than, "You can't, it's riveted in place."