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Well David, Here is my subjective opinion, for what it is worth. Initially, a "60" reading isn't enough to scare me too much yet, in itself. I would want to know why the low reading??

Did the A&P work for the "Sweet spot?" Or just put to TDC and go with that without moving the prop? An engine is dynamic and I believe that you must test it dynamically. Finding the maximum compression in which that cylinder is capable of obtaining. That is how it is actually operating in flight.

One compression test is insufficient to determine if there is actually a problem. Run the engine and retest. If that cylinder is then still low then you MAY have a problem. You need to then locate the problem. Is it rings? Or is it (a) valve(s)? That would then determine my next course of action.


You need more information, David................

How's that?

I agree with Bill. I also think that leak checks should be performed warm. Engines are NOT going to be 30 degrees while operating. Who cares about compression on an engine that isn't running?

Continental SB03-3 concurs:

http://www.tcmlink.com/pdf2/SB03-3.pdf

See the top of page 7.

Interesting, thanks.

One thing I missed until just a few mins ago. The aircraft has been sitting for about 2 months. The IA says he's been down this road a million times. He said he can practically guarantee the compressions will go up after it starts being flown regularly again. At last annual (Oct), all compressions with >72. I feel a little better

Now, if we can finally reach a deal I'll have a plane!

At the outboard end of each elevator there is one bolt, nut, cotter pin, bearing (really a bronze bushing), and a bushing (actually a steel sleeve that is slightly longer than the bronze and a smooth fit in it). I just changed this bronze bushing on a '63 on the RH outboard elevator and the top of the rudder (neighbors airplane) and the bronze "bearing" is......

S1003-65A BEARING (List Price: $ 7.14) Stock Available Retail $ 6.07 (EA) and is easily replaced in a few minutes. The steel bushing that goes inside this bearing will never wear out and does not need replacing.

On this serial number aircraft the bolt is a AN3-7 drilled bolt and a AN310-3 castle nut and cotter pin and AN 960 washer. If the elevator has a bolt into a self locking nutplate it is an older elevator, they went to the castle nut and cotter pin beginning in the middle of the 1970 models. Otherwise all elevators from 1964 up are interchangeable.

For two bolts, two nuts and two bushings he sounds kinda pricey.


While alot of people lube pulleys, they have seals on the bearings in them and if you look in the Cessna Service Manual, there is NOTHING telling you to lube pulleys. A waste of time. In fact lube on the cable groove of the pulley is a BAD thing, as (in some cases) it can cause the cable to slip in the groove rather than the pulley rotating, and this eats up the pulley.

Charles

First off you don't do cold differential cylinder pressure tests. Second, Continental has a SB that gives the specifics of a special orifice to test the mechanics "compression" tester, and in many cases the allowable minimum is down around 50/80. In any case a 61/80 on a cold cylinder is not a problem.


As others have said, prop records are usually skimpy and if the prop looks in good shape it probably is. If you are that particular about it, go ahead and overhaul but if I were the seller, I would not make any concessions for it.


I seem to recall that the millennium rocker box covers are different, and not interchangeable with standard Continental covers. I am certain you should be able to identify the cylinders upon inspection, due to the different design and finish of the metal, and probably p/n and markings on the cylinders, probably on the base flange.

Charles

Thanks Charles. We were able to ID the cylinders as the Millennium ones by the casting and part number, but the valve covers def say "Continental" on them. Very odd. Not sure what to make of it, but it's probably not a problem - just odd.

I was hoping to get that kind of response on the prop. I don't WANT to overhaul it, I just like knowing what I have. If the general consensus is to leave it for now if it looks airworthy (which it certainly does), then I'm just going to leave it.

Thanks for the advice. As always, really appreciate it!

Leave it for now!

But, it should cost you only around $300 to have it overhauled.................

...and for an update

The owner and I have pretty much agreed on terms. He has agreed to my terms, providing it doesn't cost "too" much to fix the MK 12D nav/com. It's being pulled today and shipped to Eastern Avionics in Florida. As long as they don't come back with a repair cost of much over $500, we'll have a deal. Otherwise, he's gonna want more money and it's back to negotiating (which I'm getting sick of at this point )

Wow! That's great news. I've had friend's props run from $500-600 easy. Guess the little McCauleys aren't as much though. $300-ish isn't bad at all.