Steven, your switch is normal and correct for your model, provided that it's staying in the "up" position and not "down". As Stacey says, there are different switches with different operation for various models.
On the first models with electric flaps up to and including the 1967 G, the flap switch returns to center when released from either direction. In those models, the flap motor keeps turning even when either travel extreme is reached -- damage is prevented by a clutch. In 1968 a limit switch was added at the retract extreme so the motor would stop when the upper limit is reached. The flap switch on those models works as Stacey describes. Some time after that, the set-and-forget flap system was implemented, where you have several flap settings you can choose and the flaps will go to the selected position and stop.
You should use the switch type appropriate for your model plane.
Thanks for the reply. My switch should be as you describe, spring- loaded so it returns to the middle (off) position when extending flaps and stays in the up position. The flap switch on this plane doesn’t automatically return to the off position, which is not only annoying, it is potentially dangerous. So I would like to replace it. I’m trying to find one that works correctly.
Welcome to the Club! I have a '73 and the parts manual shows we have the same switch. Part number S1661-2. It's only $400+ . My switch broke two years ago and I found the posts linked on the first page of this thread. If you go through he posts you'll find out this:
Cessna Part S1661-2 is expensive and the right part.
S1661-2 is a MS25201-5 (MS = Mil Spec) with the toggle threaded to 1/4-28.
Peerless sells the MS25201-5 for $43. But the toggle has no threads.
So, here's what I did. YMMV. I removed my broken and original 1973 S1661-2 and it had MS25201-2 stamped upon it. I bought the $43 switch in the photo. I bought a 1/4-28 die similar to the one in the photo for under $10. I put threads on the switch toggle. It was very easy to do. I showed the old switch and new one to my IA and explained what I did. The new switch was installed and the IA signed my logbook. About $60 in parts for a correct, legal and new switch. This happened during my owner assisted annual, so no labor as I did all of the supervised labor.
This place is an incredible resource for 150/2 pilots.
HTH, Tim
Last edited by Tim_Boese; 11/04/1702:58 PM.
The Early Bird gets the worm, but it's the Second Mouse that gets the cheese. Chandler, AZ KCHD 1973 A150L Sold RV-6A Hela
It's great that you hooked up with us and you'll find the club to be a marvelous resource for info plus it's a lot of fun. too.
I see you're in SW Missouri. I'm in NW Arkansas (Rogers) and we have several members in the area (OK, AR, MO, KS) that meet up for lunch somewhere from time to time.
Where about in SW Missouri are you located?
BTW: If you're so inclined, there is a salvage yard in Clinton, Arkansas called Dawson Aircraft that has a yard full of 150's and I'll bet they have what you need. The salvage yard is on the airport so it's quite easy to fly in and pick up what you need and you get to fly somewhere, too.
I looked at peerless electronics. In the description it says the switch is On - On - Mom. Shouldn’t it be On - Off - Mom. ??? Thanks for all the help.
That’s likely because the middle “ON” won’t be wired to anything in your application. With nothing connected to the middle pair of terminals, the middle position will be effectively “OFF”.
Or, another way to look at it - you’re buying a 3-position switch, but ‘throwing away’ the middle position.
Thanks for the info. I live near Branson (Taneyville, Mo) and keep our 150M at PLK. Clinton, Ar. is only a little over 70 nm from Branson. I will call them tomorrow to see if they have one. Also, I’d love to get together sometime. Let me know the details or we can get together in Branson. There’s lots to do here and a collection of antique aircraft to look at.