Club Homepage Forums Classified Ads Buy & Sell - Everything But Airplanes I need a rudder return spring

The left rudder return spring is AWOL and was discovered missing during the annual over the weekend. I've tried Mc Farlane and Wag Aero but no luck so far.

The parts book says I need a 0310196-13 spring-brake-rudder return.
The plane is a 1968H serial# 15068389

Any ideas where to get one? Anyone have an extra one?



...and no I have no idea where it went, other than it's perhaps laying in a steering boot along with a few other things I've dropped over the years.

Order it from Cessna, they are about $10
If it "fell off" it probably broke- you'd really know if if you tried to fly without a return spring installed, as you would really have to hold the rudder pedal to fly straight.
Cessna Parts (dot) com
IwantCessnaParts (dot) com
Have fun installing it-it's a PITA

Do you mind it it's yellow?

jim my book shows two springs but there was no "hook" on one side...
my mechanic has one...

Installation tip for the pedal return springs:

(Ref: 63-69 parts manual)

The forward (fixed) end of the spring(s)are hooked into a tab clip (item # 5) which is bolted (item #6) to the center box structure. Unbolt this tab from the structure when replacing these springs. Do this instead of trying to grab the spring itself to stretch it out to unhook it from the small hole in the tab, or to hook the new spring onto the tab.

Here is the key point - the bolt will still stay in the structure hole even after the nut has been removed because the tab/spring is pulling sideways on the bolt (not pulling it out) forcing it to lean over and jam in the hole (note the bolt head and tab is still close to flush on the structure). Now all that is needed is to stretch the spring enough to unload and slide the bolt out of the structure hole - instead of try to stretch and twist the spring around to get it out of the little hole in the tab. Reverse for install, hook tab onto spring then stretch it enough to get bolt in the structure hole with tab and bolt head flush to the structure, then let the load trap it there, ready to install the nut. Hitting this larger bolt hole while stretching the spring is much much easier than trying to hook the stretched spring on the (fixed) tab). Takes a lot of the pain and colorful language out of this little job.

There are two tabs or "hooks" as you call them. Only one is visible externally, until you remove the top cover to the box in the center of the floor between the two sets of rudder pedals. The second spring is inside that box. When installing new springs, I disconnect the rudder cables at the rudder (without disturbing the turnbuckles), which relieves tension on the pedal return springs.

Replace both springs to get even pull on the cables.

Tie strings on each of the rudder cables at the tail cone, and pull the rudder to one side and disconnect one cable, then push to the other side and disconnect the other as Carl says, and you may also need to disconnect the steering rods from the steering collar, this will allow the rudder bars to flop free, hook up the cables and verify the springs are still properly hooked, then reconnect the steering rods. Easy job except for standing on your head under the panel.

Charles

Help me out folks - how do you get the tunnel off to access the springs?

On a straight-tail? It's been awhile, but as I recall you had to first remove the two square sheet-metal scuff plates (heel plates) just aft of the rudder pedals (four screws each). That then exposes the screws holding the center tunnel to the floor. There are also four(?) screws that hold the aft end of the tunnel to the bulkhead the runs from door-to-door.

Finally, there are four(?) screws that hold the front of the tunnel to the firewall. These last screws are particularly difficult. Sometimes you can't see them because the firewall insulation is torn and covers the screw heads. You also need a long phillips screwdriver to reach past the rudder pedals. And the screws are prone to dropping into the floorboards under the rudder pedals.

Once all the screws are out, you have to flex the tunnel a bit to get it out and around the control column. You'll probably have to remove the "beauty shield" on the front of the control column for clearance.

Thanks Kirk! Sounds like a Saturday project, but definitely more promising than, "You can't, it's riveted in place."

Section 5 in your service manual has illustrations that will be of help. It is easier on your body if you take the seats out and lie on a pad. Been there, done that and got the tee shirt.

On my 1976 Cessna 150M, My left rudder return spring is broke as well. I bought the new spring, part number 0310196-13. Got the end hooked on to the clip that is attached to the control cover, but cannot find where the other end attaches at.

The only place that looks plausible is the tab that comes up off the bar and has the cable attached to it. On the forward side of that piece is a tab that bends slightly toward the pilot side and has a hole in it. It just seems like that would be too far for the spring to be stretched with the rudder pedals are in a neutral position.

I have referenced the IPC - page 152 / Figure 61, and the 1969-1976 Service manual Section 10, figure 10-2, but both illustrations are facing from the forward pilot side and only really depict the right rudder return spring mechanism which is on the pilot side interior of the control cover. I am unable to find illustrations or drawings on the left spring on the co-pilot side.

Any help appreciated.

Oh, I just pulled the rudder pedal assembly from a 150 after removing the firewall. Would have been perfect for taking a picture.

I do have some used rudder return springs available, though.

I already have the spring, just need to confirm where the aft end hooks onto.

Would believe it is easier when the firewall is pulled. I can only spend so much time laying down on the floor of that thing.

Where it hooks to the rudder pedal assembly or where it hooks to the airframe?

To the rudder assembly. I will take some pictures and upload them.

So one end of the rudder return spring is connect to an upright tube off the rudder bar. That upright has is flattened top and has a hole thru it. The other end is secured with a clip and screw & nut on the pilot side of the center tunnel. I will be out at my plane today and can stick the borescope down in there and take a picture.

Thank you, Jason! From what you are describing, sounds like the below that I have is correct. Would love a photo if you are able to grab one, as I am curious how far that spring really stretches... I wrote the below before seeing your post.

Here is the picture where it is attached to the airframe. This is where the old, broken one was attached. The second picture is the back view of the 'post' or 'tab' that sticks up from the rudder bar and attaches to the rudder cable. The third picture is the front view. This is the only place I see that would make sense for the spring to attach to, but it just seems like that is too far for it to stretch when the pedals are neutral....

Well this explains why its broken. It goes inside the tunnel between the pilot and Co-pilot. You have to remove the cover on to top get to it.


See my edit of your picture the Orange arrow points to the tube that is connected to the rudder bar ( green arrow) the top of the tube the orange arrow is point at will be squished flat with a hole in it. The clip part is in side the tunnel on the pilot side.

Also take a look at this rudder bar for sale, see the tube welded on and mashed flat at the end of it. It’s next to the rudder control horn. Where your spring was connected. The correct place for the return spring is on that tube with the mashed end.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2655941862...34SUe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Here are a couple of pictures with the firewall removed and the rudder pedal assembly removed.

First is the spring attachment points in the tunnel (with the springs hanging loose from them). Second, the attachment holes on the rudder pedal assembly marked with yellow post it strips cut into arrows.

Well now I need to for sure look at mine, I am pretty sure my 150L only has one spring inside the tunnel and not 2 as Kendel points out, one inside and one outside.

Kendel's picture with the firewall removed showed one spring inside the tunnel and one outside as they should be.

Yea I have 2 springs, the one out side of the tunnel is very hard to see. It hides nicely behind an aluminum tube. The one inside the tunnel is equally as hard to see.

Hayden, I can confirm that the outer spring is connected where you point out in your pictures. The inner spring is as I described. Connected to the short tube welded to the rudder bar and then over to the pilot side of the tunnel.

I have attached some pictures, best I can get right now.

Thank you all, this has been very helpful! I was able to get the new spring connected in the proper spots and rudders feel good as new. Mark wasn't kidding when he told me this was the most useful type club out there!

Not mine but this will suffice.

I have to assume this was either the work of a sadist in either design or assembly phase back in the day.

There is no obvious design advantage of putting that spring attach point INSIDE of that aluminum frame, attached with TEN AN-3 bolts in an awkward to reach space.

Also most of the posts about "broken spring" are on the left side.. so I would posit that the twist to get the spring to the inside of the frame puts more adverse load on it than the normal person design found on the right (co-pilot) side leading to premature failure.

Which of course begs the question of why not have the A&P change the tab to the left OUTSIDE of the frame so it matches the right side... There are no movement conflicts that can be seen.

Michael