Thanks Jim. It doesn't look like mine either so I'll probably end having an aluminum one made over in TOB. My cabin was not any warmer with the baffle on last year so I know that winter flying will include ski pants and a parka A couple weeks ago, I spent some time in the air feeling out the drafts, duct taped the vents (which must have helped cuz I couldn't see my breath anymore), but am still not getting enough heat kicking out to offset the drafts from the doors. It's OK with me though. I love cold wx flying so will just have to put up with it until I get some more cha-ching to work on it!
So are the door seals the main issue? Window seals? Maybe someone could tape you in to find out if the drafts stop. It sounds funny, but could really help find the air leaks! I do of course want pictures. and reserve the right to laugh.
There is also a heater mod that pulls air from both muffs instead of one. Who knows about that?
Last edited by Jim_Curns; 12/18/0903:41 AM. Reason: the smiley didn't smile
I clicked on the one Bengie found. Mine's an H but my baffle isn't at all like that one. Your cowling should be identical to mine. I think it's just a different style baffle.
That link is for the flexible baffle material that seals between the aluminum air-cooling shrouds and the cowling.
What you're looking for is a "cowl cover" that is part of the winterization kit.
What I've done on my '66 150F to allow me to better heat the interior is buy a couple yards of dense felt material and made a curtain that I velcro in place just behind the seats, closes off the entire rear baggage area which blocks any drafts that usually comes from the tail section and also makes for a smaller area to heat. I can take some pic's and post later, but this really works well for me!
Bill Johnston Jr. CFI,MEI Keystone Flight 1966 C-150F 8007F KMRB
What I've done on my '66 150F to allow me to better heat the interior is buy a couple yards of dense felt material and made a curtain that I velcro in place just behind the seats, closes off the entire rear baggage area which blocks any drafts that usually comes from the tail section and also makes for a smaller area to heat. I can take some pic's and post later, but this really works well for me!
I bet that would make a difference. I've got a roll of stuff that would be perfect. But should do a burn test before considering it for aircraft use. I'll burn a swatch and see what it does.
Brenda, note that your cowl will have to be drilled and have nutplates riveted into it to attach the winterization plate to. I highly recommend using machine screws in self locking nutplates as these won't vibrate loose. Not crazy about using sheet metal screws and tinnerman nutplates right behind the prop.
A couple weeks ago, I spent some time in the air feeling out the drafts, duct taped the vents (which must have helped cuz I couldn't see my breath anymore), but am still not getting enough heat kicking out to offset the drafts from the doors. It's OK with me though. I love cold wx flying so will just have to put up with it until I get some more cha-ching to work on it! 
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